Tulum: Balaclava restaurant review: Restaurant review – Gourmet Traveller

A recent renovation has given this modern Turkish diner a textured, moodily lit new look, and further reason to secure a seat. There’s appeal in the drinks list, too – a short, sharp collection stacked with Turkish wine, raki and theme-appropriate cocktails (try the Raki Sour garnished with Persian fairy floss) – and in the knowledgeable service from an enthusiastic team. But Coskun Uysal’s inventive cooking is the main draw. It’s precise, original stuff that puts a clever twist on traditional Turkish cuisine. Sesame seed-topped pide arrives with spicy muhammara (red pepper dip), Tulum cheese, olives anointed with oil and flavoured with coffee, and butter capped with a smear of smoked prune purée. Sardines, grilled to perfection, are topped with slivers of cucumber and a bay-flavoured tartare sauce. Lamb, served raw, is given texture with burghul and subtle heat with Turkish chilli pepper, while desserts include sweet-savoury combinations like tahini ice-cream, cumin caramel and smoked eggplant mousse. Tulum is excellent value, too, making the seven-course dégustation option a good one for those who arrive famished – always a good plan when eating at this small, ground-breaking gem.

Phone:
(03) 9525 9127

Bookings:
Bookings recommended

Features:

• Licensed
• Outdoor dining
• Private room

Accepted card types:

• Eftpos
• MasterCard
• Visa

Chef:
Coskun Uysal