Adelaide Central Market Tour – Adelaide, SA
This little piggy went to market…
…and this little piggy (me) didn’t feel like going home at all! Every city has markets, but Adelaide has the largest one and not just in Australia, but the largest fresh produce market in the Southern Hemisphere. Fact. Didn’t you know? Me neither, and I only found out during my recently trip to Adelaide with Helen (Grab Your Fork) for Tasting Australia. Tasting Australia has already organised two different but equally extensive itineraries for both me and Helen. During the 7 days, we will be tasting some of the most amazing food and wine South Australia has to offer. Whilst I’ll be heading south to explore the Limestone Coast, Helen will travel north to Barossa Valley to have an intimate lunch with Maggie Beer. We are indeed very lucky to have this experience.
Can’t say that I am familiar with the food scene in South Australia but the only one thing I am pretty certain is that there are literally wineries at every corner, no matter which direction you are heading. But Adelaide actually has a lot more to offer and already made itself known in the Australia food scene. During my audition for Masterchef season 2 last year, one of the judges had already told us that they were super impressed with a lot of good cooks who got through the audition are actually from Adelaide. One of the reasons why there are so many passionate home cooks in Adelaide is because of the abundance of local fresh produce they can easily lay their hands on. And exploring the local fresh produce market is the very first program in our Tasting Australia itinerary.
Clockwise L to R: Rosemary having a great time at the market tour; Con's fine food - one of the many cheese shops in the market; giant pretzel at the bakery; Mark Gleeson - our tour guide of the central market; glossy plump organic red capsisum from House of Organics
The Adelaide Central Market is located right in the heart of the Central Business District. It is only a short tram ride from the InterContiental Adelaide, that’s where we are staying while in Adelaide for the Tasting Australia events. The tram system has been operated for over 70 years and is still the main form of public transport in Adelaide. We later found out that it is absolutely free to take the tram ride within the city circle. How I wish we have that in Sydney.
We arrive at the Central Market and Mark Gleeson, our tour guide is already there to meet us. Mark is a well known and respected Providore in the Adelaide Central Market. Mark has over 25 years experience and knowledge in South Australian quality food up his sleeves. He told us that there are over 80 specialist stalls and majority are small family businesses. Adelaide Central Market is also the most visited tourist destination in SA with over 1.3 million visitors per month.
Clockwise L to R: ginormous Pine mushrooms; a long aisle lined with stalls in the market; dough.. bakery and the Mushroom Man stalls; delicious lemon brioche at the Dough, friendly staff at Dough explains their products
We are a little star struck to have Rosemary Shrager and Paul Rankin to join us for the market tour. Seriously, Rosemary, Paul and me, on a market tour together? I’m not worthy. I find it fascinating to see the world renowned chefs browsing through the meat and vegetable in the market, showing just as much interests as we do. Rosemary in particular, is so passionate about the local fresh produce, she will caress the fruit, whip out her iPhone occasionally and take pictures of the meat and vegetable, and she keeps repeating herself,
“Just marvelous! This is truly astounding!”
Clockwise L to R: candied fruit and vegetable on display; shopper chooses fresh farm eggs from the basket; goat cheese tasting at Smelly Cheese shop; a wide selection of cheeses available at the stall; I love that tshirt!
Through the Central Market tour, Mark leads us from aisle to aisle visiting the stallholders, sampling a variety of local produce including cheeses, breads, olive oil, coffee and even oysters. The market is actually very busy on a Saturday morning, which makes the tour is little apprehensive especially we are in a big group, it is always difficult to get the group stick together without someone wandering off and also have to dodge the incoming traffic from the opposite direction.
But the most impressed thing I’ve noticed is that there are no plastic bags used at the Central Market. We are all given a recycled shopping tote bag made out of hessian sack. I also see some shoppers pushing their own shopping trolleys. Way to go.
We barely skim the surface of the Central Market, there are simply way too many stalls to visit and too much things to see and try. Helen and I both agreed to make a mental note and come back for one last shopping haul on our last day in Adelaide before flying back to Sydney. First thing first, we need breakfast.
There are cafes and food stalls in the market but the one stall that caught our attention during the first trip to the market is the Taldy Kurgan, a stall that sells Eurasian food and Russian Piroshki. We both share two piroshki, two round deep fried buns with hollow pockets inside filled beef and rice piroshki, and ricotta and spinach on another. The piroshkis are still soft and warm when served, I especially like the moreish savoury fillings of beef, perfect for winter mornings. I love anchovy and also get the zippoly anchovy bread, which is very similar to a piroshki but with a tiny slit of salty anchovy hidden inside the elongated shaped bun. Comfort food me hearts. We also share a bliny, a thin crepe roll which is a little chewy, filled with light and tangy ricotta and the occasional burst of sultanas.
Deep fried buns and strong coffee from Zed’s coffee next stall, breakfast for the champions.
I brought along my Central Market shopping bag and it is time for some serious shopping. My little shopping list includes:
The Mettwurst Shop – We’ve been told all the mettwurst are naturally smoked which yield a longer shelf life. The variety of mettwurst is extensive, from traditional garlic, to red wine, csabai, and there is also ‘Bum burners‘ for those who like it hot – laugh now as you may, and face the consequences later. I bought the hottest of them all, the ‘Fire Starter‘ mettwurst, which is literally studded with red chilli seeds all over. It is still sitting in my pantry, I am not in a rush to open it what so ever.
Sevenhill Fine Foods – This stall runs by a Polish family, brightly lit in fluorescent red with cured meat hanging above head. It sells continental foods and small goods including Dutch, German, Polish and Scandinavian foods. Helen fancies some Lachsschinken, while I absolutely intrigued by the blacken Gypsy smoked ham in the glass display. Despite its unappealing outlook, the Gypsy smoked ham is beautiful, smokey and velvety smooth.
Mushroom Man’s Mushroom Shop – We spotted some ginormous pine mushrooms at the shop during the market tour and really looking forward to go back and get some, but unfortunately they were all sold out! And not just mushrooms, they also carry a very limited stock of truffles from Tasmania.
We did spend quite a long time at the Central Market, but one last thing we’ve been told that we must try is the curry laksa from Asian Gourmet, a eat-in/takeaway little kopitiam located right at the back in the market.
The service here is brusque and no funky business. We secure a table inside the restaurant, grab a menu from the counter, decide what we want then go line up and order our meal from the counter. We have to try the most recommended curry laksa here, supposedly claimed to be the best laksa in Adelaide. Unfortunately it is missing the “oomphf” that I am looking for. The laksa is creamy and rich with the heavy dose of coconut cream, a dollop of sambal paste atop the noodle with a few disconcertingly “pink” shrimps and pieces 0f fried tofu happily soaking up the creamy sauce.
The char kueh teow is more delectable between the two dishes. Slightly greasy, but the CKT is nicely charred and smokey from the breathe of wok, generous portion with tender chicken pieces, prawns, and Chinese sausage. The slippery rice noodle is lightly flavoured with soy sauce and not at all spicy despite I ordered “extra hot”.
By the time we finish our meal, the restaurant is now packed with lunch goers and a long queue formed itself at the ordering counter. We have no intention to stay long and let the others who are waiting can have our table.
We walk out of the Central Market, with our shopping bags now filled with yummy goodies, happy but also a little envious, how I wish we have a market like this in Sydney.
[A Table For Two attended Tasting Australia as media guest of the festival, courtesy of Tasting Australia and South Australia Tourism]
Adelaide Central Market Gouger St Adelaide, South Australia 5000 P: (08) 8203 7203 Opening Hours The Adelaide Central Market is open Tuesdays, Wednesdays*, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Trading times SUNDAYS - CLOSED MONDAYS - CLOSED TUESDAYS - 7am to 5.30pm WEDNESDAYS* - 9am to 5.30pm THURSDAYS - 9am to 5.30pm FRIDAYS - 7am to 9pm SATURDAYS - 7am to 3pm * Optional opening only on Wednesdays. (Limited stalls open.)
Adelaide Central Market Tour Early Riser Breakfast Tour Start the day at 8.30am with a Market Breakfast followed by a 1.5 hour Adelaide Central Market Tour. $75.00 / adult The tour runs on Tue, Thurs, Fri and Sat mornings. *There are other tours available, please check website for more information.
A Table For Two (ATFT) is Billy Law's food blog that features best eats in Sydney and around the world with drool-worthy food photography to salivate your appetite. I also throw in a smidgen of my food and travel photography for good measure. Billy Law also happened to be a contestant on MasterChef Australia 2011. 
I love Adeliade Central Market, I think it’s easily the best market in Australia.
You’ve got everything there; fresh produce, great range of ethnic ingredients, hard to find items and artisan goods. What more do you need?
Richard Elliot´s last [type] ..Restaurant Review: Bills, Darlinghurst
The markets were amazing. I loved that there was such a great range of produce and deli items. Such a shame they had sold out of pine mushrooms on our last day.
Helen (grabyourfork)´s last [type] ..Helm Bar, Darling Harbour, Sydney
I’ve been to these markets and absolutely love them! OMG! Rosemary Shrager? I would have done the tour just to meet her!
Peter G @ Souvlaki For The Soul´s last [type] ..Beetroot and Pear Soup
For 18 months I lived one block south of central market. It is a class above anything in melbourne and three or more above anything in Sydney. I’ve heard that it is one of the best five in Australia, but I’ve never been to the other four. I dispare when shopping on Sydney.
yewenyi´s last [type] ..Bicycle Band
It’s a longbtime ago now, but there was a little hole in the wall place in a lane just south of the marke. That had the best Hinan chicken rice.
yewenyi´s last [type] ..Bicycle Band
Wow these markets look amazing. All the produce looks so fresh and there are unusual things like pine mushrooms and smelly cheeses. What fun!
Mark @ Cafe Campana´s last [type] ..It’s Not Lupus! – Quince and Almond Tarts
Now that looks like my kind of market… and interstate holiday destination
penny aka jeroxie´s last [type] ..Chocolate indulgence at The Langham, Melbourne
Oohh this brought back some good old memories … we used to shop at this market every saturday morning/noon … good to see most goodie stalls are still there!!
BTW Asian Gourmet was never our place for Msian food in Adelaide … Ricky’s (chicken rice & char kuey teow) from the foodcourt or 大家樂 (curry chicken) on Moonta Ave are much better =)
foodwink´s last [type] ..Twinkle Twinkle Two Michelin Stars – L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon
Nothing short of a paradise if you ask me!
Maria´s last [type] ..Chicken with sweet chilli & orange sauce
Lol at the ‘bum burners’ How brilliant. Don’t forget to pack your wet wipes for that! Love watching Rosemary on tv, such a cut & dry personality. These markets look incredible and I love the absence of plastic bags
john@heneedsfood´s last [type] ..Coffee Trails, Haymarket
Wow, here’s my reason to visit Adelaide!
Jen´s last [type] ..SiChuan Hot Pot (Steamboat), Burwood
How lucky, lunch with Maggie Beer.. that is such an honor! The market does look amazing!
Andreas @ MyGourmetFeast~>´s last [type] ..My Sydney Feast~> Maggie Beer Products
I love checking out local markets wherever I go – this looks huge and they even have Laksa??? Wow, I can’t wait to check this out.
Kokken69´s last [type] ..Crispy Stuffed Tofu Puffs – Snack To Watch The Ball Goes By…
wow… might have a reason to go to adelaide…
the char kueh teow looks great. what a wonderful experience, looking forward to more posts from you and Helen!
I went to Adelaide about two years ago and we stayed at a place in walking distance to the market. I went every day it was open! Definitely the best market around. I’d go to Adelaide just for the market!! The fresh pretzels rock! (we had them with some beer in Handorf, perfection!)
deb (bearheadsoup)´s last [type] ..Delicious Vietnam #2 Bitter Melon
Ooh I’ve never been to Adelaide and certainly didn’t know about the markets – but it’s on my places to go now. It looks fantastic! I love spending a weekend day slowly perusing & sampling market goodies
Forager´s last [type] ..Breathtaking dining in La Paz, Bolivia
Wish everyone would follow that norm, no plastic bags.
Joe Zachs´s last [type] ..The NDA in Pune
Adelaide Central Market is the largest fresh produce market in the Southern Hemisphere?! Who would have known, lil ol’ Adelaide!
Photos look amazing as always and it seems as if you had a great experience!
Looks like a trip to the markets this Friday night may be on the cards!
Just when I was starting to get itchy feet and wanting to leave Adelaide, I read this and remember how much I’d miss my weekly shop at the market. The whole state is plastic bag-free by the way…I remember taking my trolley to do my grocery shopping in Leichhardt when I lived there; everyone looked at me strangely.