The Russian Coachmen Restaurant – Surry Hills, NSW
As mentioned on my about page, one of the reasons how this blog was started is because of FOFO. FOFO is a social group on Flickr where we share the same passion towards food and photography will go out and eat… with cameras of course. Unfortunately, the group has been shamefully neglected for over 8 months simply because everyone were busy with their own agendas in life. Partly is my fault for not looking after the group since moving up to the Coast. Enough is enough and it’s been far too long, I’ve resurrected the group with a great turn out of ten people to our latest FOFO feasting at The Russian Coachmen Restaurant (Or simply “The Coachmen” in short). Oh, I almost forgot how much fun it was to hang out with the FOFO(-nians?)!
The Coachmen came up during a recent conversation between me and the Beardman while we were at Est. for the Merivale Winter Feast. We both agreed instantly that we have to have our next FOFO outing at this restaurant that not many people know about. The restaurant is located at the quiet end of Bourke Street in Surry Hills not far from Bourke Street Bakery. From the outside, you would hardly notice that this sandstone heritage building constructed by convicts more than 150 years ago is actually a restaurant, especially when it is all secretly hiding behind tall sandstone walls, the red awning and the wrought iron gate. It is all hush hush and no one knows what is going on inside, I guess there is only one way to find out. No turning back now… We step through the iron gate and immediately greeted by a half naked Venus de Milo statue before we find ourselves in the grand front bar area. The kitsch over-the-top decor at the front bar had me in awe. The bar counter is supported by mythical half eagle half lion gargoyles, while an extensive range of alcohol are neatly stacked and mirrored on the bar shelves, guarded by two giant romanesque statues on each side. Beardman, Aussie Ana, Mr and Mrs Robot are already here, sitting on the red velvet lounge awaiting for our arrival. Mirvettium, Mr and Mrs Pig Flyin’ also arrived not long after before we proceed into the dining room.
The front bar is just the tip of the iceberg before we found ourselves in one of the most impressive private dining room I’ve ever seen. The sandstone dining room is almost filled up with a massive oval shaped glass top table in the center, with fanned napkins, shimmering glassware and faux flowers candlelight holder as the finishing touch. The dining area on the other side across the corridor has a more intimate ambience for couples, a lot dimmer with flickering candlelight setting the mood.
We start the night off with some vodka tastings, a last minute offer swapped over from the complimentary bottle of wine by booking online. Make sure you ask the lovely waitress dressed in folk costume nicely. Two different kind of vodkas are on offer for tasting – the clear Polar Bear Russian Vodka is straight bottoms up with throat burning sensation. A big sigh, shaking one’s head violently until lips fluttering uncontrollably follows by a loud groan afterwards helps. The latter house made plum vodka is smoother and more palatable with a sweet undertone.
Potato dumplings (vareniki) - 13.95
More mouths mean more food porn coverage. Among the ten of us, we all tagged team and able to cover most of the dishes on the menu. You can’t have vodka without some potatoes, this is a Russian restaurant after all? The vareniki, is a traditional Ukrainian-style dumplings filled with mashed potato, then poached in boiling water. The dumplings are moreish like the potato gnocchi, it is served with caramelised fried onion rings and sour cream in a tomato rosette.
Siberian meat dumplings (pelmeni) - 14.95
If you prefer meat in your dumplings, then the Pelmeni will be the right choice. This Pelmeni is very much similar to the Vareniki but filled with minced meat instead of mashed potato. It is poached in boiling water then served in clear stock with a dollop of sour cream. The outlook is rather pedestrian but definitely shouting out comfort food for a freezing cold winter night in Russia I could imagine.
Borscht soup - 12.95
Mrs Robot feels like a soup and ordered the hot Borscht. The Russian borscht is more like a warm tomato soup whereas beetroot acts as the secondary ingredient along with cabbage, cubes of potato and carrot, all simmered in a meat broth. Sour cream adds creaminess to the soup.
Crepes Russian style $16.95I
I simply can’t dismiss the word “caviar” on the menu even though I know it is just some cheap red salmon egg roes. Helen probably thinking the same thing as we both go for the Russian style crepes. Two folded crepes are impressively thin, served warm with plump popping salty salmon egg roes, while the sour cream balance it nicely.
Herring in a fur coat - 13.95
The most popular choice at our table has to be the herring in a fur coat simply because of its peculiar name. I was initially the fourth person trying to order it but unfortunately just missed out as my fellow companion already ordered the last three serves. Mrs Pig Flyin’ kind enough to let me had a taste of hers. The color of the dish is just as peculiar as its name in a vibrant pink hue. The herring fillet is buried deep in the dish of potato and beetroot salad, topped with egg zest which I thought is cheese at first. The earthy beetroot makes the herring like swimming in a puddle of pink mud, the saltiness of the fish is even more prominent.
Coachmen pancakes - 13.95
The Pom orders the Coachmen pancakes, a house specialty. The savoury crepes are filled with tender succulent chicken pieces and served warm with creamy mushroom sauce. Surprisingly this is one of my favourite entree among them all.
Grilled pork medallion - 24.95
The service is prompt and attentive, we didn’t have to wait long for the mains to arrive. Mirvettium she is the only one who orders the grilled pork medallion. The marinated lean pork medallion is flame grilled to a crispy golden brown, served with mashed potato, creamy spinach and topped with sweet caramelised fried onion. I found the pork is tad too salty from the marinade, but the sour cream sauce binds with the creamy mashed potato beautifully and makes a perfect match with the pork.
Beef stroganoff - 25.95
The pom’s beef stroganoff is not as saucy as what we’d have expected. Despite its poor presentation, the strips of steaks are actually very tender heavily coated in a mushroom sour cream mustard sauce. It is served with jasmine rice and pickled gherkins on the side.
Veal goulash - 24.95
click for details
Mr Robot orders veal goulash, while Mrs Robot goes for the Monastic fish. There are tender veal chunks in the ceramic pot, sauteed with sour tomatoes, carrots and selected herbs in cream. Served with caramelised onion toast on top with shredded cheese.
The monastic fish had us intrigued. It is described as an authentic 18th century recipe served to the monks in monastry whom were mostly vegetarians. The Dory fish fillet is baked in a ceramic pot along with potato, mushrooms and cheese au gratin. The fish was a little salty I’ve been told, and vey rich smothered in melted cheese in the pot.
Grilled lamb Georgian style (shashlik) - 25.95
Me and Mr Pig Flyin’ both opt for the Georgian style Shashlik. The dish steals the whole show of the evening when it comes out with big chunks of marinated lamb fillet grilled on a giant skewer across the whole plate. The baked chat potato is soft with a crispy skin, while fresh salad balance out the meaty dish. The first two chunks of lamb on both edges are a little well done, but the rest are beautifully cooked with pink juicy tenderness. The homemade spicy tomato sauce gives the lamb a subtle heat punch.
Cabbage rolls - 22.95
Helen orders the cabbage rolls which I always thought is a Lebanese or Greek food. Two big white cabbage leaves are filled with ground beef and rice, simmered slowly until cooked in vine-ripened tomato sauce served with more tangy sour cream.
Chocolate raspberry crepe - 9.95
Most of us are already quite full with all the rich and creamy dishes, thus only a few of us putting hands up for dessert. The dessert menu is probably the least exciting as I was expecting something more Russian focused. The sweet crepe filled with hot raspberry soaked in sugar then served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and dark chocolate sauce drizzled all over.
Mango paradise mousse cake - 9.95
The mango paradise mousse cake is pretty to look at, but I found it nothing like a mousse cake. The bouncy texture makes it more like mango jelly with the heavy use of gelatine instead of a soft airy texture a mousse cake should have. It is then simply sandwiched between two layers of sponge cake which is rather dry.
Sour cherry strudel - 9.95
I ordered the sour cherry strudel which is probably the most satisfying among them all. Despite a stodgy pastry, the sour cherry filling inside is aplenty, it has a very soury tang, perfectly balanced out with the scoop of vanilla ice cream. A nice dessert to finish up the meal this evening.
We ate, we chatted, we laughed and we definitely enjoyed each other’s company. I can see there will be a lot more FOFO outings to come in 2010.
The Coachmen Russian Restaurant and Function Centre 763 Bourke Street, Surry Hills, Sydney Tel: +61 (02) 9319 7705 Open for dinner Tuesday to Sunday
A Table For Two (ATFT) is Billy Law's food blog that features best eats in Sydney and around the world with drool-worthy food photography to salivate your appetite. I also throw in a smidgen of my food and travel photography for good measure. Billy Law also happened to be a contestant on MasterChef Australia 2011. 
Go go FOFO! Was great to catch up with everyone. Love the first pic, and Mr and Mrs Robot? lol!
.-= Helen (grabyourfork)´s last blog ..Sugarcane, Surry Hills =-.
yeah I want to set up another one soon to include MarkieMoo and the Ms Jady! but have to wait till they get back from holiday
I have always considered this place, but a few not-so-positive reviews have scared me off. Your photos definitely help persuade me though! The pancakes and meat dumplings look so good!
it is decent, but nothing to rave about really. give it a try, something different is always a good experience.
Very intriguing.. I’ve always wondered what Russian food is like. Seems like it involves alot of sour cream. Thanks for the review.. Will keep it in mind if I feel like trying something new
sour cream, potatoe and pancakes
dude, your photos are damn awesome, i can’t believe it man, no flash! i won’t believe it but having seen you in action, wow!
.-= ladyironchef´s last blog ..Singapore Dim Sum list =-.
hahaha no flash man! u should give it a try
I went to the Coachmen a few years ago and it felt like I was in a Russian Mafia movie. We had the banquet and there was so much food coming out. The food was great but the service was a little dissapointing. Your photos are amazing Billy.
.-= Katherine´s last blog ..Ocean Room Sydney =-.
hahahaha it seems bit like that.
yeah i think the banquet worked out cheaper.
Great photos – goes quite a way to dismissing my fears of Russian food…
.-= Tina´s last blog ..A New Year holiday end =-.
theres always something new. give it a try
LOL, it was good to be there, but sadly the promised Russian Mafia were missing. I think my favourites were the herring in a fur coat and Pelmeni. Maybe I can go back and just have entrees all evening?
As for the service it was excellent. I suspect our delight in the food helped.
And I finally rediscovered a beer I last had in Turku in Finland, Baltica! It is simply my favourite beer.
.-= yewenyi´s last blog ..Footway licence =-.
i liked the Pelmeni, very mourish indeed.
You can find Baltica in First Choise or Dan Murphy. It has been there for a while.
Love the first photo so much happiness captured in a single shot! T’was great fun catching up with everyone and it was great to finally sample this place after soo long!
.-= mir´s last blog ..2010 =-.
thanks yasinta! great to catch up with everyone again isnt it?
What a feast Billy! I’ve often walked past that place and had no idea it was a restaurant! I think I’ll wait until the weather cools down before I try out this place…the food looks very hearty and filling!
.-= Peter G´s last blog ..Prawn Tacos with a Kohlrabi Slaw =-.
yeah no many people dare to go inside i dont think
winter will be a perfect time for this hearty meal i reckon
Been wanting to try this place – it looks like a great venue for a dinner party and something different! Excellent photos (as usual) – did you use a flash for these?
.-= Jade´s last blog ..Melting moments =-.
no i didnt use flash, just normal light in the restaurant.
wow. this place looks fabulous! def on my list of places i must go!
.-= Sara Tea´s last blog ..Happy Birthday… =-.
ehehehe the food is decent, but is quaint inside and wortha visit.
I use to drive by this place from time to time when I use to work in the area. Guess now I know what the food is like.
Some of the food looks real good. As much as I like eastern European dumplings, just from looks alone I’d have to agree that the coachman crepes would be my favourite too
yeah is quite hearty food, best to go during winter in my opinion
It all looks delicious and lighter than expected since Russian food is normally quite heavy. And Russians should know better than to serve salmon roe and call it “caviar” given the enormous black market trade in good sturgeon roe in Russia. Then again, I’d never turn down salmon roe either!
.-= Forager´s last blog ..Hiatus =-.
yeah i was wishing some nice caviar comes in a shoe polish tin can.
what do you expect for $16,95? A real thing?
yes I do, because is written “caviar” and not “roe”
I’ve always driven past this place and wondered what it was like inside.
As a vegetarian, however, I don’t think it’s a place I’d visit.
Enjoyed your post nonetheless!
too bad….
Actually I had my birthday party there during lent, that’s the time when I give up meat for 40 days. Nevertheless I was surprised from variety of vegeterian dishes.