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Zoli Encourages Diners to Get a Little Uncomfortable

Of all the alerts and inquiries I’ve received from restaurants — soliciting my preferences, my allergies, my...

Marcel Is Overcurated and Underwhelming

Three days after Sotheby’s successfully auctioned a Rothko for $85.8 million, I dined with the acquisitions class...

Kaiseki Lite

The durational work of art will always have its day. Jeanne Dielman. Lonesome Dove. Ponderously weighty, they...

The Soho Local

To love the pub is to lament the pub. It’s never as good as it was. Kingsley...

Confidant Is a Neighborhood Joint That’s Found Its Neighbors

If at first you don’t succeed, location, location, location.” Isn’t that how it goes? Confidant, a gamely...

Playing the Diplomat

“Oh, Ambassador, you’re spoiling us!” a Londoner I know likes to quip. In the U.K., it’s a...

Who Are the Pierogi Boys?

When a DJ in Ridgewood tells you he’s found local schnitzel that’s better than anything he got...

Golden Steer’s Mob Mentality

The steakhouse, that most American of restaurant genres, has in recent years been co-opted by foreign interests....

Bistrot Ha Goes Big on Everything

If there’s one thing worse than too much of a good thing, it’s too little of it....

Bites on Parade

Chef Charlie Mitchell preparing...