Tag: restaurant review
Zoli Encourages Diners to Get a Little Uncomfortable
Of all the alerts and inquiries I’ve received from restaurants — soliciting my preferences, my allergies, my...
Marcel Is Overcurated and Underwhelming
Three days after Sotheby’s successfully auctioned a Rothko for $85.8 million, I dined with the acquisitions class...
Kaiseki Lite
The durational work of art will always have its day. Jeanne Dielman. Lonesome Dove. Ponderously weighty, they...
The Soho Local
To love the pub is to lament the pub. It’s never as good as it was. Kingsley...
Confidant Is a Neighborhood Joint That’s Found Its Neighbors
If at first you don’t succeed, location, location, location.” Isn’t that how it goes? Confidant, a gamely...
Playing the Diplomat
“Oh, Ambassador, you’re spoiling us!” a Londoner I know likes to quip. In the U.K., it’s a...
Who Are the Pierogi Boys?
When a DJ in Ridgewood tells you he’s found local schnitzel that’s better than anything he got...
Golden Steer’s Mob Mentality
The steakhouse, that most American of restaurant genres, has in recent years been co-opted by foreign interests....
Bistrot Ha Goes Big on Everything
If there’s one thing worse than too much of a good thing, it’s too little of it....
















