Giant mozzarella sticks and crust fries were memorable, but were they good enough to make this list? Illustration: Igor Bastidas
Part of investigating which viral foods are worth everyone’s time and which are missable is, inevitably, encountering a lot of lines that should be skipped. Candidly, I could do without revisiting many of the dozens of picks I covered this past year, but that low batting average is both to be expected and a reason to celebrate the spots that are actually great. The lines below are all bangers, composed of places I visited this year that I recommend without hesitation. The only notable omission is Mary O’s for scones, but that’s only because I’ve already named those scones one of my favorite things to eat in the city. I won’t repeat myself here, but know that the recommendation emphatically stands.
Line of the Year: Chicken Tikka Naanini
Fonty’s Deli and Dukaan, 193 Bleecker St.
While not the first to coin the term naanini”— the late Floyd Cardoz’s Bombay Bread Bar offered one with lamb and mustard potatoes in 2018 — this West Village deli revived the panini portmanteau as a gorditalike wrap. I first covered the chicken-tikka variation that went viral and found it delicious in its own gooey, sa-cy right. Yet I enjoyed the Kerala-beef naanini even more. The meat is juicy and distinct from the strata of curry leaf crisp, aloo, and mint chutney. Do what I did and bring a friend so you can try a half of each. We both ended up making second meals of our leftovers.
Spiciest: A Pikliz Burger
Rogers Burgers, 801 Rogers Ave., Flatbush
After trying the burger Creole at this Flatbush newcomer, I’m convinced pikliz is the best topping to put on a burger. It has the swift burn of fresh mustard delivered through shredded pickled cabbage whose crisp survives the heat of the burger better than any lettuce. It’s especially good on the Yard Burger with cheddar and jerk aioli for a saucy combo. The heat will linger a while after you’re done eating.
Do a Big Shop: Weekend-Only Chicharrón
Chorizos Meats, 5822 Fifth Ave., Sunset Park
Not everyone loves the idea of waking up early on a Sunday to get to this grocer before the weekends-only carnitas sells out. But once you’re there, you can take advantage of the other shopping here. First, stop at the butcher counter where someone might hand you a sample of golden-fried pork belly. The store itself carries all of the tortillas, salsas, and avocados at every stage of ripeness required to complete a meal. Walk north on Fifth Avenue for a few blocks and you’ll hit the produce stores with displays of herb bouquets and tropical fruit.
Best Cold-Weather Ice-Cream–ish Thing: Frozen Rainbow Whip
Happy Zoe Vegan Bakery, 102 B Nassau Ave., Greenpoint
I’ve never seen more people ignore a display of baked goods like I did this past summer at Happy Zoe, where everyone in a line of dozens was waiting for only one thing: rainbow whip, which, for the unfamiliar, is a large colorific swirl of aerated frozen banana, plus all of the fruits and nature-based powders that allow them to explore the full ROYGBIV spectrum in each cup. Because each flavor must be prepared à la minute, fans can barely get in the door while it’s warm. The reverse is true now that it’s cold: It’s the best time to try this whip without the stress of a crowd, which you can enjoy with a vegan whoopie pie and a cup of tea.
Best Dessert to Share: The Strawberry Fantasia
Bar Primi, 349 W. 33rd St.
If I were trying to have an affair, this would be a great place to get started. The “Penn District” culture, such as it is, is clearly influenced by its proximity to midtown’s offices, Madison Square Garden, and the country’s busiest commuter hub: This is a place to meet someone for a fleeting dalliance. Order a swirly strawberry fantasia, and when the waiter places the martini glass of strawberries and cream at your setting, it will give your next fling something to talk about.
